We sit down with Chef Samaira Kavatkar, the visionary behind Nine One, to explore how she’s redefining Indian cuisine with her Bombay East Indian recipes and Portuguese flavours, which challenges norms.
This week’s Friday Club. Insider features Chef Samaira Kavatkar, a maverick who has made waves in Hong Kong’s dining scene with the launch of Nine One, a modern Indian restaurant that’s rewriting the rules – starting with a menu conspicuously free of curries. Instead, Chef Samaira introduces diners to her heritage by combining traditional Indian and Portuguese flavours in ways that challenge typical perceptions of Indian cuisine overseas. Born and raised in Mumbai, Kavatkar’s culinary roots run deep, influenced by generations of her Bombay East Indian family. This distinct community, shaped by both Indian and Portuguese cultures, has handed down a rich tradition that Chef Samaira is now bringing to the forefront in Hong Kong. From spice blends meticulously made from scratch to ingredients flown in from her family’s farm, every dish at Nine One tells a story – one that Chef Samaira is eager to share with the world. We sit down with her to explore her insights and learn how she’s reshaping the narrative of Indian cuisine in Hong Kong.
What inspired you to pursue cooking professionally, especially as a self-taught chef?
Cooking has been my lifelong passion, and very early on, I decided that if I reached a certain age – 40 – I would leave the 9-to-5 grind and pursue what I truly love: food. Since childhood, I’ve always wanted to have my own restaurant, something more commercial, but also with a community kitchen element. That dream is what ultimately persuaded me to start my own restaurant.
The name Nine One is quite symbolic. What does it mean to you personally, and how does it reflect your vision for the restaurant?
Nine One is actually India’s country code, as in +91. We chose this name because we wanted to showcase dishes from all across India, not just limit ourselves to one region, state, or genre of cooking. The idea is to celebrate the diverse culinary culture that India has to offer.
If you had to describe your cooking style in three words/phrases, what would they be?
Traditional, slow-cooked, and made from scratch with love.
What’s one dish on the Nine One menu that you think best represents your culinary philosophy, and why?
All the dishes on the current menu are actually my most beloved recipes – my signatures. These are the dishes I’ve been crafting since my days as a private chef, and they’ve been with me for almost 10 years now. With this menu, more than just showcasing a cooking style, I wanted to celebrate and bring the regional community flavours to people’s plates. It’s about offering a taste of home, the kind of food I grew up eating and still enjoy today. Now, when people hear “East Indian community,” they often think it refers to a region in India or assume it’s from the eastern part of the country. But in reality, the East Indian community is a small ethnic group from Bombay. We are descendants of Portuguese converts and the original inhabitants of the city. Unfortunately, not much has been written or spoken about our community. There are no widely available recipe books, though there are a few people now who are starting to blog about our traditions and cuisine. Two dishes that stand out are the East Indian Lamb Potato Chop and the Chicken Khuddi With Arroz. These are two celebratory staples in our community, and they’ve helped put me on the global map.
So, we noticed there are no curries on the menu – could you tell us why that is?
Why no curry? Well, what exactly is a curry? I often ask that question myself. When I was younger, I’d see dishes being called curry, and I assumed it was just for the sake of making things easier to understand. But as I grew older, especially after moving out of India, I started getting asked, “What do you eat at home? Is it curry? Who makes the curry?” – especially since my husband is also a chef. It’s a bit sad because I didn’t grow up eating “curry.” My mother would make dishes like Kadhi, Kalwan, or Salan – each with its own distinct name and flavour. The word “curry” really only came up when we dined at Indian restaurants and saw it on the menu. I think it’s a bit cruel to lump all South Asian or Asian dishes together under the label of “curry,” as it erases the unique differences between them. I want people to understand that Indian food is so much more than just curries, naan, and tandoor dishes. No offence to those, but India is incredibly diverse in its culture, people, and food, with a rich heritage. At Nine One, my goal is to show people how food has travelled from India to different parts of the world, and vice versa. It would be a shame to call it all “curry.” For instance, I have a standout dish – Chicken Khuddi – which is a very simple, staple dish in my home. And then there’s the East Indian Lamb Stew, Not Curry. There’s no curry powder in that dish. It’s a slow-cooked lamb dish, and back in India, we don’t typically eat lamb; we use goat, mutton, or beef. But here in Hong Kong, I don’t have access to goat meat, so we use lamb. It’s a dish with zero oil, zero ghee, zero butter, no cream, and no curry powder – just authentically pure, slow-cooked lamb with some veggies. The only spice in it is turmeric. So, that’s why it’s not called curry.
What are your future goals for Nine One?
Right now, I’m just going with the flow, and I’m happy to say we’ve just completed 100 days – so, well done to us! I’m really enjoying all the love from the people around me – whether they’re long-time guests from my private kitchen days or new patrons discovering Nine One for the first time. I haven’t seen anyone leave Nine One unhappy, and that, to me, is a mission accomplished. That’s the reason I left a 22-year corporate career – to do something I love and to bring smiles to people’s faces. At Nine One, we have guests from all cultures and walks of life, all enjoying the same food. We don’t create special dishes for individuals; everyone is treated equally. The dishes are crafted so that both the youngest and oldest members of your family can enjoy them together. That inclusivity is something I’m really proud of.
When you’re not cooking at Nine One, what’s your go-to comfort food?
My go-to comfort food is actually on my menu – it’s Khichdi. I love it, and I also love my biryani stew; I make a really mean biryani. But Khichdi holds a special place in my heart. It’s often viewed like congee, as something you eat when you’re sick, or something for babies or older people. But for me, it brings a lot of comfort. If you look at my menu, you’ll see all sorts of Khichdis, with even more to come. So, if I’m not cooking, I’m probably eating Khichdi.
To stay up-to-date on Chef Samaira Kavatkar‘s projects, follow Nine One on Instagram.
Friday Club. is where every day feels like Friday. We spark conversations that are both trendy and thought-provoking, exploring topics that truly matter while staying true to ourselves. We’re all about honesty, tackling tough subjects head-on, yet we never forget to embrace the fun life has to offer.
