Kashmir’s age-old craft of shawl-making is a delicate interplay of tradition, artistry, and cultural storytelling, and at its heart stands Pashmkaar, led by founder Tariq Dar. Rooted in a family legacy, he seeks to preserve this craft while advocating for its artisans. On his recent visit to Hong Kong, Tariq brought along artisans who had never left Kashmir to the Mandarin Oriental, offering a rare glimpse into the painstaking process behind each shawl. In our conversation, we delve into his mission to bridge heritage and modernity, all while championing the hands behind the craft.
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What inspired you to create Pashmkaar? Was there a particular moment or influence that made you realise this was your path?
Well, I come from an artisanal family. My father specialised in embroidery. Before he got married, he began creating his own shawls – starting with one, then two, then three, eventually building a business. Growing up, I was surrounded by the craft and the stories that came with it. My maternal side of the family also had deep ties to this tradition; they wove Pashmina shawls, while my father focused on the intricate embroidery. So, I was immersed in this world – on one side, the weaving of Pashmina shawls, and on the other, the art of embroidery on them.
Kashmir, as you know, is often called the valley of Sufi saints. There are countless stories about how the Pashmina craft began over 600 years ago, rooted in spirituality. For the people who started it, this craft wasn’t just a livelihood; it was a path to enlightenment, a way to connect with God or the divine. Growing up with such stories resonated with me deeply, especially since I consider myself a spiritual person.
Having worked in the fashion world, I wanted to create something that went beyond myself. I felt a deep need to elevate the dignity and respect for Kashmiri artisans and their craft. Pashmina shawls have been cherished around the world for centuries, but often, the artisans behind them – the people of Kashmir – don’t receive the recognition they deserve. I wanted to change that narrative.
Coming to Hong Kong is a significant step in this journey. The people here have long appreciated Pashmina shawls, but I wanted to give them a sense of what truly goes into creating one: the skill, the dedication, and the stories of the artisans who bring these masterpieces to life. It’s about more than just the product – it’s about understanding the incredible craft and people behind it.
How do you balance preserving the heritage of Kashmiri Pashmina with the need to stay relevant in today’s global fashion market?
Kashmiri Pashmina has long been associated with royalty and nobility around the world. For me, the most important mission is to preserve this heritage and craft in its purest, finest form. At the same time, I aim to make it relevant for today’s fashion-conscious audiences. To do this, we blend modern colours and contemporary designs with the centuries-old techniques of hand weaving and embroidery, ensuring the craft itself remains as authentic as it has always been. For example, I closely follow fashion trends from New York, London, and Paris Fashion Weeks, as well as Pantone shades and the colour palettes of leading global brands. I integrate this knowledge into our scarves, creating pieces that are timeless yet versatile – ones that can complement a modern wardrobe while still honouring their rich heritage.
Can you share more about the origins of the materials used in your shawls? What makes them so unique, and how do your production practices uphold environmental and social responsibility?
Pashmina has been called by that name for the past 600 years, but if you test it scientifically, it’s technically Kashmir wool. The name itself comes from Kashmir, and there’s a fascinating story behind it. Hundreds of years ago, the British brought these exquisite shawls to Europe, where they became incredibly popular. It’s said that when Josephine, Napoleon’s wife, wore one of these shawls, it sparked a fashion revolution. These shawls became the equivalent of the Birkin bag in their time – luxurious and highly sought after. When people in Europe asked where they came from, the British would say ‘Kashmir’. But since they couldn’t pronounce the name properly, the term ‘cashmere’ was born, symbolising the finest quality wool, intricate craftsmanship, and exceptional warmth.
The process begins with the raw material sourced from the Changthang region in Ladakh, near the Tibetan border. Nomadic communities there breed the Changthangi goats, which produce the finest wool. This raw material is then brought to Kashmir, where the magic happens. The craftsmanship of Kashmiri artisans transforms this wool into something extraordinary. The journey involves cleaning, hand-spinning the yarn, and weaving it on traditional looms – a painstaking process that gives Pashmina its unique character.
When it comes to sustainability, Pashmina stands apart. Each shawl is entirely handmade, involving 12 to 14 artisans throughout its creation. This not only supports a vast network of craftspeople but also ensures the product is eco-friendly, with zero carbon footprint. Even today, antique shawls made centuries ago are still treasured. Many are repurposed into new pieces, preserving their heritage. In India, there’s a tradition where a mother passes her Pashmina shawl down to her daughter or daughter-in-law, making it a timeless heirloom. Simply put, Pashmina is forever.
How do you work to challenge the societal stigma surrounding artisans in Kashmir?
Coming from Kashmir, a small city nestled in the Himalayas, I’ve witnessed how this craft is sometimes burdened by social stigma. Many people see it as outdated or associate it with those who couldn’t pursue other professions. There’s a perception that artisans are outcasts, which couldn’t be further from the truth. This craft requires years of dedication, training, and skill, and the people who do it are truly remarkable.
One of the first things I did was to bring artisans into the spotlight through social media. I believe we were the first brand to showcase artisans on Instagram, sharing videos and reels to demonstrate how this exquisite work is done. It was my way of showing the world – and the younger generation back home – that this craft is not only beautiful but also a source of pride, respect, and dignity. When our reels began getting thousands of views – sometimes even 100,000 or more – it validated just how special this craft is. People back home started to notice, realising that being part of this heritage could be rewarding and meaningful.
When I brought our artisans to Hong Kong, it was a milestone moment. Some of them didn’t even have passports before this and had never travelled, even within India. For them, stepping onto international soil and showcasing their craft here was transformative. It was my way of telling them – and the world – that this craft is powerful enough to take you places. These artisans are not just workers; they are artists crafting on one of the world’s most delicate and precious fabrics, often called ‘soft gold’. And in a world increasingly driven by AI and automation, nothing can replace the beauty and soul that these artisans bring to their work.
Why was it important for you to bring your artisans to Hong Kong for this showcase, and how did the experience impact them personally and professionally?
When the artisans first arrived in Hong Kong, they still saw themselves as ‘just artisans’. But after showcasing their craft here and seeing the response, they’ve come to deeply appreciate the beauty, value, and importance of their work. Today, they understand just how special their craft is and are beginning to see themselves as highly skilled professionals. For me, the goal isn’t just about elevating the few artisans who joined us on this journey. It’s about inspiring the hundreds, even thousands, of artisans back home. I want them to see that if they pour their heart and soul into their craft, incredible opportunities can follow. This experience not only boosts their confidence but also shows other brands the impact of bringing artisans to the forefront. I hope this sets a precedent, encouraging more initiatives that highlight the talent and significance of these incredible individuals.
How do you see the brand growing in the future?
Hong Kong has been an incredible stepping stone for us. The community’s warm reception has been heartwarming, and we’re profoundly grateful for the support. As we look ahead, I’m determined to take our brand global. Beyond showcasing the craftsmanship, I’m passionate about highlighting the spiritual essence of our work. It takes artisans two to three years of daily dedication to complete a single piece – there’s an almost divine connection in that process. Our mission is to share not only the craft but also the positive energy and good vibes embedded in every creation.
To stay up to date on the brand‘s latest projects, follow M&E Collection by Pashmkaar via Instagram.
Catherine Pun
A Hong Kong native with Filipino-Chinese roots, Catherine infuses every part of her life with zest, whether she’s belting out karaoke tunes or exploring off-the-beaten-path destinations. Her downtime often includes unwinding with Netflix and indulging in a 10-step skincare routine. As the Editorial Director of Friday Club., Catherine brings her wealth of experience from major publishing houses, where she refined her craft and even authored a book. Her sharp editorial insight makes her a dynamic force, always on the lookout for the next compelling narrative.
